Quick Start Guide

When you open the packaging, please check for any shipping damage. If there is apparent damage, please call us ASAP at (407) 493.2355.

Once you confirm there is no damage, please take the time toread the Installation and operation manual on this site. 

Included in the box:

  1. Pump, complete with drive, stainless steel check, output pressure gauge and fittings.
  2. Supplied loose is the inlet pressure gauge. We highly recommend you to install this gauge into your existing water supply to determine your supply pressure. This is important to insure there is enough water coming to the pump and helps with troubleshooting.
  3. A sun shield if you requested one. This option is only needed if the pump will be mounted in direct sunlight. It is not needed in indoor and shaded areas. This shield will come as a flat sheet so bend it in accordance to your particular needs to optimize the shade effect.
  4. A small pouch of LocTite 577. This is thread compound specifically designed for stainless steel threads. At times stainless steel can be hard to seal with typical Teflon tape so we include this. If you have issues sealing the stainless steel threads, simply spread this on the male ends of your pipes. Do not cover the first thread. This product is good for drinking water and should be allowed to set up for at least 1 hour before applying water pressure to the pump.

Optional sun shade shown below.

Inlet Pressure Gauge Supplied
Loose

  1. When mounting the pump try and make your install as easy as possible.
    Determine a location near the water coming into the home and as convenient as possible to power. You will need 230V power or you can purchase an optional 110V to 220V step up transformer if you do not have 220V power. Most homes built in America have 220V available.
  2. Mount the pump above grade by at least 2 inches if being mounted outdoors. The reason for this is to prevent water puddling at the base of the pump. Although the pump is water proof it is NOT submersible. Standing water will damage the unit and void the warranty. A quick method of mounting is to bury a cement cinder block 3/4 in the ground on its side. Then position the pump on top of the block and mark the hole pattern with a sharpie.
  3. Purchase a tapcon kit 1.5″ X 1/4″ is sufficient, the kit comes with a mason drill.
  4. Remove the pump temporarily.
  5. Pre-drill the holes you previously marked.
  6. Re-place the pump on the block aligning the holes.
  7. Screw down the tap-cons until snug.

Depending on local codes, you may have PVC, CPVC, copper, stainless or galvanized pipe.
Please follow local codes before installing the pump with proper material.
At this point, it may be a good idea to hire a plumber since this is an advanced DIYer project. But if you feel qualified and are up to the challenge, let’s continue.

  1. Turn off the main water supply. If you are on city water, it’s typically on your property close to the street.
  2. Once you are certain the water is turned off by opening a hose bib and allowing any retaining water to bleed off, cut into the line at a place convenient to the pumps locale.
  3. This is where your location will change the type of pipe you will use.
  4. We suggest always installing a bypass valve arrangement. It will require 3 valves and 2 quick disconnect fittings. 
  5. Remove the white plastic cap by turning it CCW and thread the 1 1/4″ pipe or combination of reducer and your pipe to the inlet side of the pump, also called the suction side. Keep the cap incase you need to ship the unit back in the future. This prevents water that will be in the pump from leaking out.
  6. Remove the outlet side white plastic cap and thread the 1″ NPToutlet side of the pump using appropriate materials and reducers if needed to match your existing piping.
  7. The bypass valve arrangement is shown in the diagram to the right.
  8. The loose supplied inlate gauge has a 1/4″ NPT thread so you will need couplings with that size.
  9. Once the plumbing is finished, apply water by turning on the house water supply and slowly turning on the input and output valves. Turn OFF the bypass valve and check for leaks. Fix any leaks.
  10. Check the water inlet pressure gauge that you mounted to your existing pipes.
  11. Check output pressure gauge supplied on the pump.
  12. The pump is now ready for power.
  1. If you are not qualified to wire this product, please contact a certified electrician. Please adhere to local codes when wiring this product.
  2. A 2 pole, 15 amp GFCI breaker is required to protect personnel and product.
  3. Wire the pump with no less than 14 gauge two wire with a ground of equal gauge.
  4. Use mechanical reliefs and mechanical shielded cable.
  5. Open up the cover of the drive and feed the cable through the strain relief hole on the right looking at the back of the unit.
  6. Connections inside the drive are made by stripping back THNN wire by at lease 1/2″ and pushing the wire into the holes as shown in the picture to the right. Make certain the ground is connected.
  7. Tug on the wires to insure good connection and once  you are confident they are connected replace the cover BEFORE applying power.
  1. With the cover on the unit, apply power to the circuit breaker by flipping it on.
  2. LEDS on the unit should light.
  3. A flashing green LED means the unit is ready to run but the pressure is above the setpoint.
  4. A red LED means the drive is in fault. No pressure is a main cause for this. 
  5. To address a fault, please read the manual under troubleshooting.
  6. Turn the pressure setting knob CW slowly while watching the output pressure gauge.
  7. Once the setpoint pressure is above the inlet pressure, the pump will start.
  8. Set the knob to the desired pressure.
  9. TAW suggests an operation pressure from 60-65 PSI.
  10. If there is no demand the pump will turn off after a few moments that the pressure is reached.
  11. The pump will now stay off until a faucet is turned on.

House pressure should not be set above 75 PSI and the pump limits this setting. We advise keeping the pressure below 65 . Make note of the incoming pressure. The pump can not supply more than 40PSI above your incoming pressure, attempting to do this will make the pump cavitate and over a long period of time could damage the pump. To prevent this damage, the pump incorporates an anti-cavitation algorithm. If the pump is running at full speed but can not mantain the pressure set point, it will automatically lower the pressure setpoint to the point it can keep up.  determine your maximum flow by turning on several fixtures and a shower & observe the incoming pressure, the setpoint should not be set higher than 40PSI above this to prevent the cavitation algorithm from ever operating. For example, if you turn on two showers and a faucet and your supply pressure is 10 PSI, the pump setpoint pressure should be set to 50PSI, 40 above the 10 PSI supply pressure.
The pump can not make up for not enough water supply from the city or your well so keep this in mind when setting your pressure. How you can tell if the pump is cavitating is it will make a noise similar to a popcorn maker. If the pump is making this noise, either reduce the demand or reduce the pressure until the noise stops.

  1. Turn on a faucet in the home, the pump should turn on to maintain the setpoint.
  2. Flush a toilet, again the pump will turn on and turn off after a time delay after the toilet finishes filling.
  3. Turn on a shower and a toilet and the pressure will maintain the setpoint assuming there is enough water supplied to the home. 
  4. If the pressure does not maintain, look at the inlet pressure gauge, the pump can only supply a boost presure of 40 PSI max. 
  5. So if the suction pressure drops to 20 PSI, a maximum of 60 PSI is all you will get regardless of the setpoint being set higher. Picture two shows this in real time.
  6. Troubleshooting and normal operations are covered fully in the manual.
  7. ENJOY YOUR PERFECT PRESSURE!